I’m not sure if the Empire Builder has been refurbished since the 60’s, maybe the business class coach seats in faux leather, blue. But for the rest – it’s now well overdue.

We are currently sitting in a ‘roomette’ bouncing about through Wisconsin on our inaugural cross country train journey from Chicago to Portland. The roomette is tiny for sure, but for 2 filles who have lived in ‘small’ for the past 22 years we can make 44 hours work, no problem.

There’s space to walk around and other carriages to explore. The observation car dotted with Mennonite men and boys with that peculiar haircut, Amish women in their Gilead gowns of various shades of green and blue – some carrying small babies with bonnets. The cafe with no pretensions, stock on display, stock in boxes on the floor, a gruff attendant who wants to quiz even me on my ID when buying beer and cocktails. Plural. And the miles of coach class seats, all filled with a slice of Americana on this, the 4th of July – sleeping, reading, lounging, eating – playing cards. Anything to wile away the hours as the green fields and lakes of Wisconsin flash by our windows.

Three and a half hours in, with patches behind my ears just in case, I’m loving this trip so far. Next stop the dining car for our 8pm reservation and 3 course dinner menu. Wish me luck!