When your friend you spend the most time with is as knowledgeable about wine as my friend is, chances are you tend to take more interest in the subject, your taste becomes more refined and you are no longer satisfied with just any bottle, or any restaurant with a mediocre wine list, or any restaurant at all that has crappy wine glasses set out. It’s both a curse and a blessing.
This week I went along to a dinner at il Vino, the restaurant here in Paris opened by Enrico Bernado, the winner of the 2004 title of Best Sommelier in the World. Bernardo has held the title for 3 years, and was ousted last year by a Swede, Andreas Larsson. The restaurant’s menu is in fact a wine list. There are a selection of wines that you can choose from, and then your meal is devised based on the wine you choose.
The idea is great, the wine list is fine, all the staff are sommeliers in their own right and can guide you with your choices and have great detailed knowledge on hand if you have the vaguest question. You start by notifying them of any allergies or aversions and the adventure begins from there. We were a table of 5, and we all decided the Menu “aveugle” (blind) would be fun. They paired 2 entrees, 1 main, 1 dessert with 4 different wines for which we were to discern.
Sadly we were disappointed with our lot. The sardine starter was ok, the swordfish was great, the duck main was ok, and the dessert of clementines on pastry was good. But 2 out of 4 plates is not what I’d call successful at a restaurant of this calibre. The biggest problem was the size of the portions which were miniscule. We all left hungry. The other major set-back was the wine served with the Swordfish entree was a Beaujolais Nouveau. It was quite good for a Beaujolais Nouveau, but to put a Beaujolais Nouveau on a tasting menu at €95 per person we thought was a bit cheap… there is no way it would have even entered our minds while we were blind tasting, that it could even be an option.
Nevermind. The staff were great, Enrico made himself available for photos, and while I don’t think I would repeat the experience I’m happy to have tried it.
I guess as I stated initially, our taste becomes more refined, we drink better and better wine at home, and we eat well which is not hard if you live in France and enjoy cooking. Going out for dinner, especially at these kind of prices should be a formidable experience. Il Vino fell a little short.



